Ah, Akira. How great thou art! How great thou art! Returning triumphantly to the event this year, on the final day of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, Akira Isogawa over delivered an incredibly beautiful promise. It was a metamorphic transition, and mastery, of emotive hues that culminated in the beauty and grace that comes out of his tactile hands. On a lacquer runway, a rich tapestry of patterns and textures developed, plus cool wedges, hair slicked tight and adorned high with flowers and berries. To the music of Icelandic group Sigur Ros Colour, Akira’s rich detailing ethereally moved, progressed and created contrast throughout the show. Chic Report official rates the makeup as best in show week; on a perfect white pallor the focus was on the eye - chalky pale through to fuchsia neon - and feathered above the brow enhanced the intensity (thank you, Natasha Severino). Layer upon layer of craft and thought delivered to the runway like a perfectly executed Haiku. Emotion ran high in the packed-out collection showroom (with several buyers and editors seen to wipe tears away!).  Backstage, Akira told Chic Report, “The show is really all about colour. I just really wanted to see what colour can do to one’s emotion. Like, we want to express our thoughts and positive energy through our colours. Also, it is not just about the individual colours, it is a mix of colours that create a different kind of energy.” He continued, “It was most amazing to share energy by working together with an amazing stylist, hair and makeup. It is like it goes into that compartment, is all mixed together, and we can become amazing and create that amazing energy together! I think colour can be the same, when you mix a certain colour - like red and fuschia pink, yellow, purple and green.” Akira ended a week on a high, of the event jam-packed full of fashion energy and talent which judging by the industry response; international and domestic buyers, media and designers has culminated in perhaps the strongest Australian Fashion Week to date. Encore! - Larissa Hazel 

Well, OK, Chic Report is no Sartorialist snapper but we just had to grab a shot of one of the new and fabulous front row additions who arrived resplendent during Australian Fashion Week (in a Philip Lim dress); Vogue UK’s own Aussie gal Pippa Holt. Evelina Khromtchenko from L’Officiel Russia made for another Chic addition to the local fashion fraternity this week, as did Jason Campbell of the JC Report. Buyers Albert Morris for Browns and Julien Bertic of Villa Moda enhanced the ringside interest.

Tina Kalivas may have been obsessed by the way culture oscillates through time, and boy did “The Pendulum” swing. Her Spring/Summer 08/09 show at Australian Fashion Week, managed to just pull off what may have proven erratic for others to attempt to undertake. Elizabethan times, soft silk ruffles, gathers and layers, washed out grey denim, tea dyed Victorian lace, underwear details, tassle rope trims, lace grosgrain ribbons, boning and webbing reverberated through the show. Kalivas displayed short and boxy tailoring to begin – soft peaches moved through to greens - and ended with a carnival of colour block inserts (that Kalivas is so well known for). Patchworks of diamonds, sewn into the shapes like a stained glass windows, set against neutral silk ruffles and organic layers delivered. Japanese red and gold obi fabric cinched the deal, against an emerald green trench (courtesy her theatrical costume roots and Tokyo contacts). Technique was evident (she’s ex Alexander McQueen) and showed us some of the reasons why she is stocked in sought after boutiques like Browns Focus and Harvey Nichols (Dubai and Hong Kong).

Holy gladiator, Imelda! Chic Report may have heavily overdosed on maxi dress shapes, both this, and last season. But, worthy of mention today was designer Michael Lo Sordo. A collection, that seemed to have the most promise within the budding New Gen #1 Show, a vehicle for introducing designers new to the Aussie Fashion Week schedule. On show? Patent, sculptural bustier that clamped the bodice, providing a lynchpin for a curtain of printed silk that drew the group show to a welcomed close.

Near the end of a long and packed Australian Fashion Week, Chic Report caught designer Michelle Jank (perched with the gorgeous Mink from Chadwicks) on a bench outside peering out behind the most incredible bouquet of flowers.  Fleurs from Grandiflora, the Sydney florist who turned very fashion this week; involved in shows such as Easton Pearson (oh my gosh, remember that gorgeous, floral adorned hair?). Owner Saskia Hargreaves’ tiny Macleay Street store has long been a destination for Sydney’s fashion industry insiders (and fashionable neighborhood locals, like stylist Ken Thompson).

Mad Cortes designer Mira Vukovic presented a gorgeous, candy pop, fun Spring/Summer 08/09 collection today. Neon coloured baubles in set and dishevel hair, appeared on shoes (with peek-a-boo pop tart nails) and set the scene for wearable pieces that girls will go troppo for. It was 50s prim style meets the contemporary, and gone a little crazy. A perfect fusion of sensibility with the right sprinkle of eccentricity; ladies moved from vivid butterfly paint floral silk by day, slipping easily into night with section that moved into a more sophisticated grey and black theme. Stand outs included a fantastic take on a Chanel-esque sequined jacket worn over stripe knit dress and nude tulle overlay skirt. Long, liquid black silk and organza maxi evening dresses will become wardrobe objects of desire.

Ubiquitous cult brand Havaianas, this week did some very brisk business at its on-site exhibition booth in the RAFW Annex. Design your own flip-flop theme; begged participants to co-ordinate or clash by creating their own customized designs. Crowds mixed n’ matched base colours and straps from the start of the week, all the way through to stumps.

For those that weren’t bird phobic, the fashion pack has been raving (or raven, as it literally was, with a live bird at the opening) about the artfully inspired Konstantina Mittas’ Spring/Summer 08/09 show.  Fabrication, clever construction and volumous shoulders (that almost took flight) have remained one of the RAFW standouts.

Chicettes, it is so not easy to do jersey. Gary Bigeni’s Sping/Summer 08/09 collection gave us clear insight into his twists and drape technique. Strong clean lines, appeared deceptively straight forward, but that is precisely what showcases his skill for the cut of his favourite fabric. Pulled back hair, strong brow and dewy skin complemented the simplicity. Amazing singlet cuts on natural fibres in midnight blue, cool greys, pale orange and an almost Ken Done inspired 80s graphic tri-colour print. While the collection showed clarity and precision none of the same restraint was shown in the selection of the designer’s personal outfit (that was a patchwork riot of colour).

On the most fabulously blue Sydney morning, herald in the final day of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week! This morning, Chic Report caught up with actress Miranda Otto. Perched in a Jayson Brunsdon dress, with brush stroke calligraphic characters, she looked, so pulled together.  (Otto splits her time between New York and Sydney, it’s fab to have her in town, and this morning, she totally personified La Dolce Vita).

Jayson Brunsdon presented a small, but beautifully tight Spring/Summer Pre Collection salon show for the ladies atop the terrace of the Overseas Passenger Terminal, to whet our appetites for his new season ahead. “Fellini’s Women” in ivory; headbands, a shantung silk trapeze coat with encrusted jewels, and sheer obi-styled nipped waist jackets that played with stunning silk organza crinoline (that provided both lightness and sculptural form with delicate ski jump hips, over lace skirts and prim pleats, please column skirts). A maxi halter dress fit for Anita Ekberg with a single fluid, floating panel of organic Japanese print splayed its way toward the floor. Chic Report loved the patent Biviano booties with lace inserts.

Day 5 Roll Call: James Cameron, Mad Cortes, Gary Bigeni, Therese Rawsthorne, New Gen #1 and #2, Jacqui Alexander, Tina Kalivas. And for the RAFW finale? Akira. Can’t wait!